Issue 1, September/October 2005
     
Best Burgundy
 
Domaine Des Malandes, Chablis, Côte De Lechet, 2004
While this was certainly not the finest wine in the 2004 Chablis tasting, it was selected for being fine, charming and classic. It has a pretty and intense aroma, with floral and greengage notes and a touch of gunflint. The palate shows concentrated, austere appley fruit with steely intensity, a taut structure and a persistent chalky finish. It is part of a very engaging flight of wine from Jean-Bernard Marchive .
 
My favourite wine of the trip was probably Domaine René and Vincent Dauvissat, Les Preuses, 2004. At the other end of the complexity scale, Domain des Maronniers Petit Chablis and Chablis are simple wines which perfectly capture the essence of Chablis.
 
Domaine Hubert de Montille, Volnay 1er Cru Mitans, 2002
On the theme of 2002 (DFT tasting) this wine, which was not presented in London, but was tasted shortly before, was delicious and more open than Montille's Taillepieds. An energetic wine with intense red fruits, very fine and supple tannins, a silky texture but with a crunchy freshness and a prolonged sweet finish. Very seductive and harmonious wine. Expect this to close down. Score 18
 
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